Notes from exploring Korea.
I live on Jeju and I write down what I actually go back to — the parking, the opening hours, and what the menu really says.
Cafe-like noodle shop, huge portions! FoodNeungso Bibim Guksu, Jeju: Free Extra-Large Portions in Aewol
A cold spicy noodle specialist in Aewol with a fermented sauce aged two weeks, free upsizing, 150 seats and a huge car park. Here's what to order and how spicy it really is.
Sunset at the far west end of Jeju PlacesChagwido Sunset at Jagunae Port: Jeju's Westernmost Viewpoint
The westernmost point on Jeju, so the sun drops into the sea right in front of you. Free parking, a lawn to sit on, clean toilets — and exactly when to arrive.
A slow day on the east coast GuidesEast Jeju's Quiet Side: Food, Cafés and Coast Walks in Gujwa
Gimnyeong, Pyeongdae and Sehwa — where people on Jeju's east coast actually eat, and the walks worth doing between meals. Every stop noted for whether dogs can come.
Two floors, ₩1,000 a shelf PlacesKorean Daiso on Jeju: What to Buy, and Which Aewol Branch to Use
Korean Daiso is not the Japanese one — different company, different stock. What's worth buying, and why the Hagwi branch beats the bigger Jeju stores.
Three for ₩2,500, still warm FoodHagwi Smile, Aewol: Chewy Rice-Flour Twist Donuts, Three for ₩2,500
A takeaway shop in Aewol frying glutinous-rice twists to order — three for ₩2,500, four toppings, and opening hours that every review online still gets wrong.
3am food near the airport FoodPadaegi Sundae-guk, Jeju: Open 24 Hours Near the Airport
Pork offal soup served around the clock in Nohyeong, ten minutes from the airport — with underground parking. What it actually is, and whether you'll like it.
Seaweed soup, 8am, near the airport FoodMom-guk at Suyeong Bapsang: A Proper Jeju Breakfast, 10 Min from the Airport
Jeju's own seaweed-and-pork-bone soup, served from 8am ten minutes from the airport. Thick, not watery — which is the whole problem with mom-guk elsewhere.
Ten dishes for two FoodBada Hansang, Jeju: A Full Seafood Spread the Locals Fill Up
Mak-hoe — chopped raw fish, eaten Korean-style — plus grilled fish, braised hairtail and eight more dishes. Open till 1am, and the small set feeds two easily.
Twelve dishes on a silver tray FoodDongbaek Kitchen: A 12-Dish Jeju Home Meal, 10 Min from the Airport
Abalone, hairtail and Jeju black pork on one tray, with rice, soup and most of the side dishes on free refill. The looks-spicy-but-isn't kind of Korean cooking.
First meal off the plane FoodModern Dombe, Jeju: Gogi-guksu Five Minutes from the Airport
Jeju's signature pork noodle soup, five minutes from the airport with a car park that fits tour buses. Plus the one dish on the menu that will catch you out.